The West Australian
16 December 2006

by Lee Mylne

Stetsons and cowboy boots are as common as beanies and ski suits in “Ski Town USA ”, the Colorado snow town of Steamboat Springs where western heritage is a part of daily life.

In fact, if you turn up on Mount Werner 's slopes for the chance to ski with former Olympian and World Champion Billy Kidd, now director of the Steamboat ski program, you'll almost certainly find he's wearing his trademark Stetson.

A sign at the top of the gondola tells you if Billy is skiing that day, and you can join him for a run down Heavenly Daze and get some free pointers along the way.

Famous for its “champagne powder”, an expression coined by local rancher Joe McElroy in the 1950s to describe the dry and fluffy snow found here and now trademarked, Steamboat Springs has an average of nearly 30 feet (9 metres) of snowfall every season.

And Kidd's not the only Olympic skier who lives here. The former silver mining town has so far produced 54 Winter Olympians – more than any other town in North America.

Skiing started here on Howelsen Hill, the oldest ski area in Colorado, where the sport was first introduced by a Norwegian, Carl Howelsen, in 1913. The first Winter Carnival was held that year, and every February since.

In the Tread of Pioneers Museum, on Oak St, historical exhibits tell the story of the sport as well as the Native American, ranching, mining and pioneer history of the area. There are old wooden skis from the mid-1800s, snow shoes, leather ski boots, and the story of the ski patrol and how snowboarding started.

Mount Werner is one of six mountains for skiers and snowboarders to choose from, with 1176 hectares of terrain and 164 named trails for all levels of ability to choose from. The others are Sunshine Peak , Storm Peak, Thunderhead Peak , Pioneer Ridge and Christie Peak.

Mavericks Superpipe, the longest in North America , is 650 feet long, 50-feet wide, has 15 foot walls, and a 17 foot radius. Steamboat's terrain park adjacent to Mavericks, features an outdoor sound system, a variety of rails and Mini-Mav, a miniature version of the superpipe with five-foot walls, designed for novice riders.

Avid powder hounds will soon see why the glades on Pioneer Ridge, Sunshine and Storm Peak are Steamboat's particular claim to fame, with the snow-laden trees providing some spectacular scenery.

From the Steamboat Grand hotel at the base of the mountain, you only have to cross the road to find yourself in Gondola Square and practically on the slopes. Friendly ambassadors are on hand to help you find your way around.

As well as a range of ski school programs for everyone from aged two upwards, there are many free programs available, including mountain tours, guided nature tours and kids programs. It's this combination – along with special deals such as kids/grandkids ski free - which has made Steamboat the “Number 1 Family Resort in The West”, according to the USA's SKI magazine.

And to make sure there's some for all ages, there's the “Over the Hill Gang”, a free program for skiers over 50 who want to tackle blue and groomed black runs with a local guide.

From the mountain village, I hop on the local bus and in a few minutes reach Lincoln Avenue , downtown Steamboat's main street.

Among the many interesting small shops here, there are two not-to-be-missed discoveries. When you step inside F.M. Light & Sons, you'll feel it may have changed little since the day it opened in 1905 (or at least since the ‘50s). This is definitely the place to buy your souvenir Stetson.

Still owned and operated by the fourth generation of Lights, this Western clothing store has many of the original fittings Frank Light installed when he arrived in town from Hicksville, Ohio, and decided to stay.

When you're in need of respite from the snow and the shopping, head into Winona's diner for some typically American fare. For something more sophisticated, have dinner at the riverside Cottonwood Grill.

And those famous hot springs? The town was named in 1865 by three French fur trappers travelling down the Yampa River. Following the sound of what they thought was a paddle steamer, they discovered a mineral spring. In 1909, work on the railroad changed the geology of the area so the springs no longer spurted into the air or made its distinctive noise.

But there are still hot springs to soak ski-sore muscles in. A drive through the countryside – where a “four wire winter” is measured against the fence lines and old wooden barns are trimmed with snow - brings us to Strawberry Park Hot Springs.

Several hot pools, of varying temperatures, send up steam to the frosted trees surrounding them. The peace may be shattered if your companions – like some of mine – decide to leap from the pools into the surrounding snow to test the extremes.

The pools are open 10am to 10pm, with swimsuits optional after dark. Just try not to get your new Stetson wet.

FACT FILE

Steamboat Springs is 257km north-west of Denver. The nearest airport is Hayden, about 35km from Steamboat.

www.steamboat.com
www.steamboatgrand.com